Showing posts with label Backwoods Home. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Backwoods Home. Show all posts

Friday, November 2, 2012

Preparing for civil unrest

A very interesting post from  www.backwoodshome.com about Civil Unrest. This follows this post about a race hoax at U.T. Austin. This follows this post about free phones for welfare recipients. This follows this post about Emmit Till. This follows this post about the likelihood of urban warfare in the U.S. and this about violent Flash Mobs which can result in activities such as Knockout King. You can read a very interesting book HERE.

Preparing for civil unrest




By Claire Wolfe

The most remarkable thing about civil unrest is that there hasn't been more of it.



Politicians are making a hash of this country—and much of the rest of the civilized world. We know it. They know it. They know we know it. But we don't feel we can do anything much to stop them.



That right there is the pre-condition for civil unrest—when people are frustrated and politicians are nervous.



Worse, that was how things stood before last fall's crash. Before pols on both left and right launched the biggest mass transfer of wealth in history—transferring our wealth (what we had left of it!) to their friends on Wall Street and in the banking industry. In other words, that's how things were before things got bad!



Now everybody's talking about the ongoing catastrophe (even if we are in a momentarily sunny mood). But almost nobody is talking about the logical—maybe even inevitable—consequences of cynical or desperate politicians abusing an already fed-up populace: civil unrest.



I mean people taking to the streets. Or mass resistance. Or crackdowns because the government fears we might do something to upset its apple cart. It's going to happen. Somewhere. At some time. It's going to.



One of the few VIPs to mention the matter openly was Zbigniew Brzezinski, former National Security Advisor and the ultimate insider's insider. He commented on the millions of unemployed or soon-to-be-unemployed and the "...public awareness of this extraordinary wealth that was transferred to a few individuals at levels without historical precedent in America." He told "Morning Joe" Scarborough, "Hell, there could be even riots." I'd say that's an understatement.









Although few in power are talking about it, rumors abound that governments at many levels are planning for civil unrest. One rumor is about a document supposedly being circulated right now among top federal officials. It's called the "C&R Document"—with C&R standing for "conflict & revolution." The much-storied paper is said to be a plan for controlling the American people when we get out of hand. True? Who knows. But the very rumor tells us a lot about these times.



Other things are not mere rumor. When the federal government established a North American Army command in 2002, its purpose wasn't to repel foreign invaders. It was domestic operations—something long and rightly forbidden by the Posse Comitatus Act. In February of 2009, when military commanders in Canada and the U.S. signed a pact allowing their armies to operate inside each other's country they didn't even bother to get authorization from Congress—an illegal and unprecedented move. And once again, the purpose was handling "domestic civil emergencies."



For several years, the Centers for Disease Control tried to get states to adopt something called the Model State Emergency Health Powers Act (MEHPA). This act would allow state governments to become police-state dictatorships in event of any ill-defined health emergency—vaccinating people by force, destroying or seizing property without compensation, and rationing medical supplies, food, and fuel. To their credit, most state governments rejected the act. A few adopted portions of it before a fervent opposition campaign caused the CDC to back off. However, the concept of a health dictatorship hasn't gone away. Not hardly. Within days of the news that a new strain of swine flu had arisen in Mexico in April 2009, states were again considering legislation to give themselves martial-law powers in event of an epidemic.



And what of the dozens and dozens of federal agencies that now have SWAT teams? Seriously, what justifies the Bureau of Land Management or the Department of Housing and Urban Development having paramilitary units?



Now maybe you like the idea of an Army that watches over its own citizens. Maybe it makes sense to have a government seize total dictatorial power in event of a health emergency. Maybe you believe SWAT teams will never be used except against bad guys. But do you really trust these people?



After all, these are the same folks, and this is the same mentality, that not only spent $325,000 to produce a souvenir photo of a presidential 747 zooming low over the Statue of Liberty, but ordered the New York Police Department, the FBI, the Secret Service, and the New York mayor's office not to tell the public. Never mind that they realized full well that passenger jets and military planes plunging low over Manhattan would evoke panic.



Still, peace reigns. Mostly. At least here in North America. But not everywhere. Not long ago, France was brought to its knees by night after night of rioting. In that country it's become almost common for workers to hold their bosses hostage in hopes of winning economic concessions. Greece, too, saw its normal life and business shut down by days of rioting. So did Iceland—a country that's normally the picture of civility.



Can the U.S. be forever immune?



It might not take much—and it could be something out of the blue, something impossible to anticipate—to set us against each other and against the "Trust us; we'll fix it" political crowd.



In a way, this national silence on a matter so many people are afraid of is similar to the silence about general preparedness issues before 9-11 or Hurricane Katrina. Only Mormons and us wingnuts spoke of preparedness way back when. Since then, of course, advice on preparedness is mainstream and common.



In another sense, this silence is different. Because when unrest finally erupts, it's not going to be us merely taking care of ourselves. It's going to be "us against them." It might be workers against bosses. Or the poor against bankers. Or blacks against Hispanics. Or little folk against Big Men in public office. Or farmers against the USDA. Or xenophobes against xenophiles. But however it happens, the implications aren't as Boy-Scoutish as just taking care of ourselves in an emergency.









Defining civil unrest

Look up "preparations for civil unrest" on Google and...What's that echo I hear?—you'll find nothing that's going to help you. In fact, you won't even easily turn up a good definition of what civil unrest is.



Like "indecency," the definition seems to be in the eye of the beholder.



I wouldn't consider a peaceful anti-war march to be civil unrest, for instance, but a police chief might. Similarly, I wouldn't consider acts of localized non-violent lawbreaking (like environmental activists chaining themselves to a tree) to be civil unrest; but a timber company official probably believes otherwise.



Civil unrest occurs when anger, frustration, or fear turn disruptive on a mass scale. Or when government officials crack down because they anticipate such disruptions. Crackdowns can lead to further frustration, leading to further crackdowns and so on—especially when the crackdowns look unwarranted and tyrannical.



In other words, civil unrest can arise from the anger of people or the folly of government or both together.



Anger over an unpopular policy, a new war, a collapse of the currency, panic over a pandemic, a food shortage, a bank run—anything like that could cause civil unrest, especially in a population that's already on edge and no longer trusts its authority figures.



Another thing you won't find via Google is how various types or levels of unrest are likely to affect us and how we should respond, if we're affected. Again, although the men and women at the top are quite concerned for their own sakes, they (and their media mouthpieces) would rather not talk about what we should do in event of civil panic.



But that's not good enough for we independent-minded people, is it?



Here are my definitions of levels of civil unrest and a little bit about how they might affect us:



LEVEL ONE: The lowest level of civil unrest is when people turn on their own neighborhoods—as happened during the race riots of the 1960s and the Rodney King riots in Los Angeles. Level One civil unrest can be deadly and destructive, but primarily to people who live, work, or must travel in the immediate area. Level One unrest is spontaneous, Dionysian, is confined to a narrow geographical zone where the protestors live. Police response may be harsh, but it's localized. Unless you're in the middle of it, you're unaffected.



LEVEL TWO: Level Two civil unrest may also be focused on a single area. But in this case, rioters or protesters have deliberately targeted a business district, a facility, a transportation system, or an organization to impose maximum disruption. One example: the World Trade Organization protests in Seattle in 1999; young people with violence in mind and rage in their hearts attacked an entire downtown, affecting hundreds of businesses and tens of thousands of workers who hardly knew what hit them. Another example: This spring, protesters in Thailand shut down the Bangkok airport, affecting who knows how many individuals and businesses. Level Two unrest is usually planned or semi-planned. The target is chosen deliberately. Although still focused in one area, Level Two can disrupt normal life and business in a whole region or country.



LEVEL THREE: Level Three comes when mass unrest or authoritarian crackdown causes disruption at state or regional level. Then, no matter what the original cause or location of the trouble, everyone in the region is affected. Effects might include travel restrictions, random ID checks, mass arrests, food and fuel rationing, controls on money and banking, roadblocks, and other harsh "emergency" restrictions.



LEVEL FOUR: Level Four is Level Three—but on a national or even international scale. It's martial law. If things ever get this bad, it's likely that the government itself will be a far bigger threat to everyone's well being than whatever the original cause of the clampdown was.



And of course, any level of civil unrest can lead to laws, regulations, and harsher police policies that end up affecting everybody in the long run.









Yes, it can involve us

We make a mistake if we think civil unrest is strictly an urban phenomena. It can happen anywhere.



When 400 government agents and soldiers descended on one isolated family in the Idaho mountains, the roadblocks, helicopters, Humvees, media presence, and furious protestors surrounded the Randy Weaver family and brought the normal life of Boundary County, Idaho, to a halt. The siege against the Branch Davidian church in Waco, Texas, wasn't conducted in the inner-city, either. Yet both of these were large scale catastrophes with all the hallmarks of civil unrest—individuals or groups resisting, government insisting.



I can easily envision strictly rural-based unrest that urban dwellers will never even hear about (except perhaps in highly distorted reports). What happens, for instance, if farmers, 4H families, owners of saddle horses, and holders of small chicken flocks decide to resist en masse the National Animal Identification System (NAIS)? It's easy to imagine, in these crazy days, USDA SWAT teams descending on the countryside to make arrests, forcibly register or destroy non-compliant animals, and burn down non-registered facilities.



The future could see rural resistance to invasive census-taking, forced vaccination programs, land takings, water-rights policies, or the destruction of herds for real or bogus health reasons. As country people increasingly see governments as foreign organizations driven by the interests of city dwellers, pharmaceutical companies, and mega-agri-business, it wouldn't surprise me.



If we ever have serious food shortages, expect rural areas to be besieged.



Even when civil unrest confines itself to the cities, airports, or highways it can affect us in crazy ways. Here's a funny example of unpredictable (in this case mild) consequences. A friend was due to have her first book published in Canada. She was very excited—then disappointed when weeks dragged by and the book didn't appear. Turns out that a band of Indians was blocking a highway bridge the printer's truck had to cross. The union truckers, in solidarity, refused to route around the protest. Just one small consequence. But you can see the unpredictability.



The simple truth is that we don't know what kinds of unrest to anticipate. We don't know when, or if, we'll see civil unrest. But thinking about the problem and preparing ourselves mentally and physically to deal with it should be just another aspect of our personal preparedness.



What we can do

1. Keep standard emergency preps up to date. First thing to do is make sure all our typical household preparedness supplies and plans are current. As BHM readers know, backup food, water, and other supplies are our mainstay for everything from bad storms to long-term unemployment, from power outages to social breakdowns. During civil unrest, especially at Level Three or Four, we might not be able to get out to buy things we need—or we might consider it more prudent to stay at home. On the other hand, if we ourselves are part of the unrest, we may need those supplies to sit out a siege.



2. Don't fall into foolish complacency. We who live in the country tend to have an "it can't happen here" attitude toward political violence or social upheaval. We see those things as urban pheonomena. And mostly, they are. But there's no ironclad rule that says they have to be. If anything disrupts the supply chain, for instance, rural areas could be the first to be cut off from food, medicines, fuel, or other necessities. If government breaks down to the point where it can't deliver food stamps, housing vouchers, social security, or bureaucrats' pay, the rural poor and unemployed could become just as restive as their urban counterparts.



3. Watch your health. As I write this, the airwaves are shrilling about swine flu. This outbreak may fizzle; after all, perfectly normal flu kills many every year without causing panic, martial law, or incessant media coverage. On the other hand, it's certain that one day some illness will rampage across the globe. Few things inspire public panic more quickly than contagious disease, and once again rural areas are not immune. Take all the standard recommended precautions like frequent handwashing. Make sure your preparedness kit includes surgical masks and disposable gloves as well as a selection of frequently updated medications. And be ready to lay low at home for a long time in the event a serious plague gets loose.



4. Make common cause with your neighbors. I've said it before, but establishing a strong bond with people in your community—right now—is vital to every sort of emergency preparedness. In event of a Level One or Two emergency, these are the folks who could come to your house to make sure you're okay. They might give you a ride out or a place to sleep if you accidentally end up in a "hot zone" of riot or protest. In a deeper or more long-term emergency, they could pool resources with you to make supply runs. They can advise you if they've spotted a roadblock. They might let you cross their land to avoid a route that has become dangerous.



5. If you grow crops or raise food animals and the unrest is due to a food shortage (or something has driven city people out into the countryside), prepare to protect your resources day and night. Here again neighbors can do each other valuable services, like taking shifts guarding fields, barns, private roads, and gardens. Yes, this is an apocalyptic scenario. Not a likely one. But if it happens, it's a Level Three or Level Four emergency—delivered to your own front yard.



6. Get advance word on local conditions when traveling. We're used to hopping into our vehicles or onto airplanes and going wherever we want to go. But as the worldwide economy deteriorates, it's wise to keep an eye on our destination. Right now, this warning pertains more to overseas travel than jaunts within the U.S. If you plan to go abroad, visit online sites like Travelfish.org. They'll have bulletins about adverse conditions in areas you plan to visit; you may even be able to receive alerts via email that will warn you about anything from political protests to disease outbreaks in places you plan to go.



7. Watch for signs of trouble when in an unfamiliar area. Sometimes the only advance notice you get is the notice your own senses give you. When walking, driving, biking, or otherwise traveling in unfamiliar places, stay in what gunfolk call "condition yellow." This is different than the meaningless colored threat levels the Department of Homeland Security puts out. It just means "be alert!" Never simply allow yourself to slouch along obliviously. Always be aware of who's nearby and what's going on around you. If you spot trouble developing, turn. Avoid it if at all possible.



8. If you stumble into a "hot zone" of unrest, be prepared to think on your feet. Not many people are qualified to give you advice about how to behave if you unavoidably find yourself in the midst of trouble—a riot, a mass protest that suddenly engulfs your familiar downtown, a spot where police are bashing heads or hurling tear gas seemingly at random. That's because not many people have ever been there and every catastrophe is different. If street-level chaos surrounds you, do your best to keep a cool head, move away from the worst of it if you get the chance, and get inside if possible.



9. If you're swept up in mass arrests during a riot or demonstration, the officers probably aren't going to be listening to your protestations of being an innocent bystander. You'll only tick them off and possibly get a charge of resisting arrest. The best advice I've received from my friends who've been busted during out-of-hand protests: Go along as best you can. Usually, all charges in such cases are either dropped or reduced once calm is restored. Only if we've reached the extreme point where police are rounding people up and throwing them into detention camps or "disappearing" them is fighting cops on the street likely to be worth it; then...fight like a demon.



10. Have a good lawyer and carry his or her card with you. Once again, in the heat of chaos it may not do you much good. But that card will come in handy later. Besides, if you and a police officer have an encounter in calmer circumstances, a lawyer's card, along with your calm assertion of your legal rights, will help you to be taken seriously. Police officers are like anybody else; they're more likely to go after easy targets than ones who are obviously knowledgeable and prepared. My lawyer has a helpful little list on the back of his card of the things you should do—and not do— when accosted by a police officer.1 I'd trust that more than my own nerves in a tight situation.



11. Be careful of roadblocks. This is a hard one. If we reach Level Three or Four of unrest, we may not only see the obnoxious police "checkpoints" we're burdened with today. We might also see two other things. One would be expanded police roadblocks, with warrantless searches, harsh questioning, and possibly mass arrests. Another could be "freelance" roadblocks—roadblocks set up by anybody from political protesters to highwaymen. (Just as gangs of home invaders now masquerade as SWAT teams, highwaymen might masquerade as government officials to rob the unwary.) If it's humanly possible, avoid roadblocks. It's not illegal to turn away from them, as long as you don't disobey any traffic laws. Police do consider it suspicious behavior and may come after you, even if you've done nothing wrong; but in a time of civil unrest, avoiding a roadblock could save your skin. Of course, both police and freelancers will set up their blockades to make them as hard as possible to avoid—all the more reason to be alert, know where roadblocks are likely to be, and have a mental map of alternate routes. If, in a time and place of unrest, you're in a line approaching a roadblock, watch what happens to the people ahead of you. If you see any sign that the motorists ahead are being abused, get out of there.









So far, we've talked mostly as if civil unrest is something apart from us—something we might have to be wary of, something we might stumble accidentally into. But the fact is that as our country becomes less free, we might of course be the civil unrest.



We might resist having our premises tagged for NAIS or having our herds slaughtered for real or bogus health reasons. We might end up fighting evictions (as farmers and many rural dwellers have for centuries during hard times). We might be the ones who say, "Hell no, we won't go!" when the mobile vaccination van comes to town, or the ones who try to keep our neighbors from being rounded up and sent to camps. Times are uncertain. We simply don't know.



But in every case, preparedness, foreknowledge, and a cool head will come in handy.



Some of us already have lines in the sand that would inspire us to resist abuses of authority. And that, right there, is something our would-be masters fear—our disobedience. What will happen? And when? Nobody has a crystal ball. But the combination of public frustration and governmental apprehension is an explosive one. Someday, somebody will light the match.





1 Here's the copy on the lawyer's card (capitalization his):

IF YOU ARE ARRESTED OR CONFRONTED BY THE POLICE:



1. FIRST, ask to call your lawyer.



2. Be courteous; do not resist.



3. Do not consent to search or entry.



4. Do not talk about anything; do not admit OR DENY anything.



5. Ask if you are free to go. If you are, GO.







I've had several different lawyer's cards over the years that say similar, but slightly different things. Another great source of information on how to handle yourself when confronted by police is the DVD Busted: The Citizen's Guide to Surviving Police Encounters. It's great because it shows very realistic scenarios and coaches you vividly on how to navigate them. Clips from "Busted" are online at the link above.











Monday, July 2, 2012

The Freedom Outlaws Handbook 179 Things To Do 'Til The Revolution

A very interesting book reviewe from  www.backwoodshome.com analyzing what citizens might think about doing if they feel their government, such as the Supreme Court or Presidency,  is not representing them. This follows this post about a novel describing unchecked immigration. This follows this post referencing a book about the Supreme Court by Mark Levin.   This follows this post about Marco Rubio's DREAM Act. This follows this post about the Black Caucus hurting Black Americans with their immigration stand. This follows this post about how to Report Illegal Immigrants! For more that you can do to get involved click HERE and you can read another very interesting book HERE!

The Freedom Outlaws Handbook



179 Things To Do 'Til The Revolution



by Claire Wolfe









"The ideal citizen of a tyrannical state is the man or woman who bows in silent obedience in exchange for the status of a well cared-for herd animal. Thinking people become the tyrant's greatest enemies." Claire Wolfe is back and has expanded her original 101 Things to Do 'til the Revolution to 179 thought-and-action items. Some will work for nearly anyone. Some will work for those who are more radical. Some are serious. Some are fun.



All of them will shore up the privacy barrier that's been eroded -- if not downright blasted away -- by the Patriot Act, corporate "Little Brotherism," and other laws and regulations. Better yet, Claire will inspire you to free your own Inner Outlaw and kick tyrant butt so you can win back freedom. The choices you make are up to you. But if you've been sitting back waiting for the water to get a little hotter before you jump out of the big government, total-control vat, Claire gives you 179 tools to help you plan and work.



"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the bastards."

"This book is based on the premise that, when governments turn bad, the best people ultimately become criminal. The people don't change; the laws do. Initiative, dissent, individual pleasures, and exercise of one's basic rights become 'crimes'. Obscure (or in the case of the world today -- fear fueled) regulations and technical paperwork violations are used to destroy people who dare to speak their minds."



From the Table of Contents:



Get your private information out of the public eye...

Don't talk to strangers...

Don't get too hung up on financial security...

Never beg for your rights...

Don't let the government control your kids...

Get started with PGP...

Protect your medical privacy...

Assume all phones are tapped and the Internet, too...

Instead of television...

Simple alternative to health insurance...

Community: the most radical idea...

Your three-day grab-and-go kit...

Stand up for people who stand up for their rights...

Find out what your drivers license says about you...

Hiding things in plain sight and so much more.

A must have for the serious freedom seeker...



Friday, March 9, 2012

Miss Fitz' Guide to Guns, Part IV Learning to save your life

Here is an interesting article from http://www.backwoodshome.com/ about buying ammo for your gun(s). This follows this post about gun buying in particular. This follows this post about which guns a first-timer should consider, particularly a woman, but you can consider this article also if you are a guy.  This follows THIS POST about some movies that have been released over the past few years that you might have missed!  This all  follows this post about guidelines to chosing good movies to watch yourself!

Miss Fitz' Guide to Guns, Part IV Learning to save your life



By Claire Wolfe



In Part I, Part II , AND Part III Miss Fitz discussed which gun to choose, how to make sure you're buying the right one, and the ammunition you might rely on to save your life.



In this fourth and final part of her series on women and handguns, Miss Euphemia Fitz, the madam... er, headmistress of Miss Fitz's Young Ladies Academy, Hardyville USA, talks about learning self-defense techniques with your new firearm.







Ah, firearms training. A woman's chance to enjoy the scent of male pheromones and burnt gunpowder together. What could be better?



Oh yes, learning new skills that might save your life. And building your confidence while having one hellacious good time.



Seriously, ladies. Every woman who buys a handgun should get some form of formal training. This means you – and means soon.



But don't think of it as a chore. Or as something petrifying. Even if you start out scared witless of firearms, even if you start out fumbling and embarrassed at your gun handling ... trust me, you are going to enjoy this once you begin to get the hang of it. And you are going to grow.



"I am woman. Hear my .45 roar."



Two levels of training



Beginners usually choose between two levels of training. The first is plain vanilla basic handling of the gun: How to load it, aim it, fire it, and above all, avoid doing something dangerously stupid with it. Classes that teach this stuff are easy to find. You might even learn these basics from your husband or boyfriend. But – no offense, guys – you're usually better learning it from somebody you're not emotionally involved with. Your early gun-handling experiences can be nervous-making enough without having all that "Me, Tarzan, you Jane" energy going on around them.



The second level of training involves learning specific techniques to defend yourself, your family, or your home. That's harder. Usually more expensive. But also usually more useful for the type of gun-work you might have to do in real life.



If you shopped per my advice in Part II, (and you did, didn't you?), then you already got some of the very basic basics. You had to, to test fire the weapons that interested you. It never hurts to "get" those basics again and again and again. And to practice marksmanship.



If the only training you can get (or afford) is an NRA basic pistol safety class – then take it.1



If the only training you can get (or afford) is some other one-day class to qualify people for concealed carry permits, then take it – even if you're smart enough not to ask the government for a permit to defend your own life.



But if it's at all possible, sign up for a good, multi-day self-defense handgun class. Or a series of classes. Or get a local trainer to work with you individually. I'll have some pointers to classes below. But first, you might want to know what to look for in a good self-defense class.



Things you'll learn in a good basic class



A good basic class might be for women only or for both women and men. It should be small enough for you to get individual attention. And it should teach at least these things (or their equivalent):





The four rules of firearms safety. (Yes, you already learned them in Part II; they'll probably be repeated in every class you ever take – and rightly so.)



How to draw and bring your gun to the target smoothly and safely. (See sidebar on holsters below.)



Proper shooting stance (which may be a variation on the Weaver position or the more straight-armed isosceles position, named after the triangle it resembles.



Basic marksmanship, with emphasis on shooting controlled pairs. That means getting into the habit of taking two accurate shots in quick sequence for extra security.



Clearing common malfunctions. Ammo jams occasionally. It happens. And you want to be able to deal with it quickly, without panic.



Tactical reloading – inserting more ammo in a hurry.



The Mozambique drill – controlled pairs to the chest then, if your bad guy keeps coming at you (perhaps because he's wearing body armor), one shot to the head.



Verbal compliance – meaning you bark at the bad guy as you aim to let him know you're 100 percent serious about stopping him.



The ready position – when you're not actively threatened but are aware and prepared to aim and shoot on an instant's warning.

In a basic class you might work entirely with stationary paper targets. These targets could contain a human silhouette, a menacing drawing of a criminal, or even a photo of a criminal holding a hostage. (Like some of these.)



Better still if your class uses some sort of moving target. But most basic classes don't.



More advanced self-defense



Here are some useful self-defense skills you might learn in a multi-day basic class or a more advanced class. All of these things might be lifesavers – and often exciting to learn, as well.





Shooting from concealment or cover. Concealment means a hiding place (from behind a hedge or partially open door, for instance). Cover means a hiding place that might actually stop the bad guy's bullet (like behind a concrete wall or the engine block of a car).



Shooting with your body in different positions – standing, sitting, prone, or supine.



Clearing malfunctions while moving out of the range of fire (as in this drill).



Firing with one hand – in case your other hand is wounded or bound.



Reloading with one hand.



Moving from place to place during a gunfight – for instance, while retreating to a safer place or sneaking up on an intruder who's moved out of your sight.



Practicing "shoot/don't shoot" scenarios where you have to decide whether you have an unobstructed shot at a villain or whether you might put a bystander or captive in danger.



Shooting when your vision is partially obscured (by Vaseline on your safety goggles during practice; by blood or injured eyes, maybe, in a real encounter).



Shooting when your hands or the firearm are slippery (by soap during practice; by blood or sweat in a real encounter).



Handling multiple assailants, like home invaders. (One common practice technique is Jeff Cooper's El Presidente drill, which requires you to shoot at three targets andto reload with the "assailants" still coming at you.)



Covering an armed partner while he or she re-loads.



Using a flashlight safely and effectively in night shooting.



It's a lot to learn. More, it's a lot to practice after you've learned it. But every one of these skills could be useful in a real-world encounter. Even if you never have to use them in real danger, they're good for helping you build up general awareness and an ability to think - and act - on your feet. Or on your back if your feet have been knocked out from under you. (As those macho Marines say, with their tongues just slightly in cheek: Rule 4 of gunfighting. "If your shooting stance is good, you're probably not moving fast enough nor using cover correctly.")



And don't forget -- you'll be surprised at what a rush it is to learn these techniques – and what a confidence builder it is to be able to say, "I can do that!"



Where to find good self-defense classes



A lot of serious gunfolk travel to multi-day classes at some of the nation's top firearms training centers: Jeff Cooper's Gunsite (Arizona), Front Sight Training Institute (Nevada and Alaska), Thunder Ranch (Texas and soon to be in Oregon), or Massad Ayoob's Lethal Force Institute (New Hampshire).



Some of these big centers have special classes for women. And some big trainers, like Mas Ayoob and John Farnum of Defense Training International will also take their shows on the road, conducting courses around the country.



Big-time, multi-day classes might cost $450, $600, or more.



There are plenty of well-reputed regional training centers, as well, like InSights Training Center in Washington state (which also takes classes on the road) and Tom Givens' Rangemaster in Tennessee. (This page has a few more of them; you can Google for others in your home area.)



Some trainers specialize in women. In Massachusetts, AWARE (Arming Women Against Rape and Endangerment) conducts inexpensive classes in various kinds of self defense. (Classes like these might run as little as $50 for a full day.) And wherever you are, you can get famed self-defense trainer Paxton Quigley (Armed and Female) to teach a firearms seminar to 20 or more students – women and couples only.



The only problem with most pro trainers is that they want your Social Security number. And since when should anybody have to have a government tracking number to know how to shoot a gun? They also run criminal background checks on you – which, obviously, are only for criminals, not for respectable headmistresses of Ladies Academies. Even the nicest of them may expect you to bring a letter from your local sheriff or an attorney, certifying that you're a wonderful, moral person. And what cop or lawyer was qualified to judge your morality?!



I was lucky. My home town of Hardyville is way too small to have a training institute, and I'm way too busy on weekends to travel to some school, and I'd kick the backside of anybody who said I should have to prove I'm not a criminal. But I got good training one-on-one from the man who teaches the local cops all their moves – Mr. Grouchy at the Guns & Liquor store, himself – a former cop and present expert on tricks and tactics. His fee: Just $25 per hour. And nobody asked for any permission slips from our local sheriff. So in short, anywhere you are, you can get properly trained.



Recognizing a threat



Good self-defense classes can teach a lot. But one thing they rarely teach – and one thing a woman shooter needs most of all – is how to recognize a threat.



The best classes have "shoot/don't shoot" scenarios where one part of the target is designed as a bad guy and one part is a hostage or innocent bystander. Your job is to recognize which is which and when it's safe to fire. That's no doubt useful for cops. But it's hardly the situation a typical woman faces.



Here's the sort of decision you're more likely to confront:



Your hyper-controlling ex-boyfriend has talked himself into your apartment to ask for "one more chance." But he's now shouting at you and won't leave when you tell him to. When you threaten to call 9-11, he rips the phone out of the wall.

You're walking past a bar and man suddenly steps out of the shadows, grins, "Hey, Sexy!" and grabs your arm. Is he an obnoxious, offensive, but basically harmless, drunk? Or is he a rapist, using this approach to gauge how easy a victim you are?



You wake up to a noise in the night. You grab your pistol and walk down the hall to find a shadowy man standing in your daughter's room. You naturally raise your gun, but the man appears confused. He starts walking toward you, saying, "I'm sorry. I think I'm in the wrong house."



What do you do?2



If you're like most women, you err on the side of giving the guy the benefit of the doubt. Your ex might be excitable, but he wouldn't actually harm you. The stranger might really have stumbled into the wrong house. Now, I'm not saying, "When in doubt, plug the dude." But I am saying that most women tend to react in two unhelpful ways when facing a possible threat.



One, we tend to think the other person can't possibly be as bad as our instincts are screaming that he is. We're nice people, right? So surely others are also well-intentioned and willing to listen to reason. (Riiiight.) Two, if he does turn out to be that bad and he starts to attack us, we doubt our own ability to fight him – and as a result, we may be too busy panicking to react competently and confidently.



When it comes right down to it, nobody can make the decision for you about when's the right time to pull a gun or when's the right time to actually fire the gun you've pulled. The danger you face is unique. Your mind, your training, your skill, your degree of alertness, the attacker's mind, his size, his condition, his weapons, your location, your circumstances, your relationship to the attacker ... a million factors will combine to determine how you act, or react, in some terrible moment.



It's one thing for me to use my Glock to run off some rowdy, drunk good ole boy who's gotten out of hand at the Young Ladies Academy. That is, frankly, pretty easy for an old working girl. It's another altogether for you to deal with your abusive, stalking ex or a sexual predator who's threatening your child. Nobody can make your life-and-death decision for you – or really prepare you for it, when it comes.



But being well trained, well-practiced, and well aware of our surroundings can give you an edge you wouldn't have otherwise.



And that brings us to the final thing – and the really, really hard thing.



Practice, practice, practice



Practice, I admit, is where I fall down. And where a lot of us do. It's expensive to shoot serious-caliber ammo. It's hard to make time to keep up our skills. Unless you just love guns (which most women don't), it's hard to motivate to go to the range or your local plinking site once a week or so.



When it comes to steady practicing, I confess it's "do as I say, not as I do." But really, once I write down these good practice ideas for you, I'm headed over to Grouchy's Guns & Liquor to pick up a box of practice ammo and going out to the range to work on draws and controlled pairs.



For inspiration:





Find a gun club or a commercial shooting range that has a Ladies Day once a week. Take advantage of their discount and go – regularly.



Set a standing shooting date with a girlfriend and keep it faithfully. Make it a weekly lunch-hour date. Maybe you can shoot and diet at the same time for double benefit.



Get some snap caps (inert, non-firing fake ammo) for your handgun. Or get a spring-operated AirSoft pistol (that looks like your real gun but gently shoots plastic BBs). Both of these will let you practice some of your gun handling safely in your own living room.



Get a small group of other shooters together and arrange to take ongoing lessons with a local trainer, even after your basic classes are done.



If you live in an area that's big enough to have competitive shooting, consider getting involved with IPSC (The International Practical Shooting Confederation) or the USPSA (United States Practical Shooting Association). Or any handgun shooting sport that emphasizes realistic action.



If you flub up and get out of practice – take your basic course all over again.

Whatever you do, don't loose the skills you learned. After all this work and expense you've gone to, you wouldn't want to lose your investment. Or your life.





1 Just be aware that the NRA pushes three rules of safe firearms handling, rather than the four rules Olde Master Jeff Cooper codified. You can decide for yourself which set of rules make more sense. But honest to heavens, one of the NRA's rules is so politically correct it might – and I mean it! -- kill you. They say, "Always keep the gun unloaded until it's ready for use." Can you picture yourself saying, "Excuse me, Mr. Drooling Rapist Creepoid. Can you just wait one sec while I fetch out my hollowpoints? I know they're in here in the bottom of my purse somewhere, probably just under my tampon case. If you'll please be patient ..."?



2 If any of my threat examples seem far-fetched, read "Bitches with Guns". Or the other women-and-guns success stories by Lyn Bates. Or read the books The Best Defense or Guns Save Lives, by Robert A. Waters. Both books contain true, detailed accounts of how ordinary people defended their lives and families with firearms.







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About "leather"

If you're going to carry your sidearm instead of just sticking it in a drawer, and if you're going to go for any sort of good training, you're going to have to buy "leather" -- that is, some sort of holster rig.



Holsters really ought to be Part V of this guide. But that subject is too personal. Your holster – or fanny pack – or concealed carry purse – is going to be a very individual choice – and might be a choice that drives you slightly crazy for a while.



Finding the right carry equipment is hard for every shooter. But it's way harder for women. The problem is: hips. And waists.



We're usually higher waisted than the boys and we stick out further in just the places a holster shouldn't stick out. It's pathetic to see some woman cop, forced by regulations to carry her holster in the traditional place, have to practically bend herself double. She reaches way, way, way up and draws her pistol from practically under the armpit of the arm she's drawing with.



For me – and only for me – I've found that some sort of "cross-draw" rig solves the hip problem. Cross-draw means that, if I'm right handed, I carry my gun on the left with its butt sticking forward. Then instead of becoming a professional contortionist to draw it, I just reach across my body and pull. You can get cross-draw rigs that ride on your hip or hang from your shoulder. A gun carried in a belly bag is also technically cross-drawn because you reach across your middle to get it. So is one that's carried in a purse on the opposite side of your body from the hand you're going to draw with.



Cross-draw might not be your "hip" solution. You may also have to try four or five different holsters or concealment rigs before you find the one that fits you. You might then find you need one rig for under summer clothes and one for under winter clothes. Or one for carrying openly and one for carrying concealed.



Your trainer can help (and a lot of the big trainers also have gun gear shops at their centers so you can try out different things). Fortunately, most holsters are relatively inexpensive. Once you've spent all that money on guns and ammo, you can experiment with carry gear without breaking the bank.

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Miss Fitz' Guide to Guns, Part III Ammo You Can Bet Your Life On

Here is an interesting article from http://www.backwoodshome.com/ about buying ammo for your gun(s). This follows this post about gun buying in particular. This follows this post about which guns a first-timer should consider, particularly a woman, but you can consider this article also if you are a guy.  This follows THIS POST about some movies that have been released over the past few years that you might have missed!  This all  follows this post about guidelines to chosing good movies to watch yourself!

Miss Fitz' Guide to Guns, Part III Ammo You Can Bet Your Life On



By Claire Wolfe



In Part I and Part II of her Girls' Guide to Guns, Miss Euphemia Fitz, madam ... er, respected doyenne of Hardyville's Young Ladies Academy, discussed types of self-defense handguns and how to buy them. Now, she takes on that hottest of hot gun topics – the ammo you might rely on to save your life.







Last time around, we shopped for a sidearm.



I ended up buying a used Glock 22 – that's the full-sized .40 caliber model. It came with a 15-round pre-ban magazine -- a prize for just $375. I liked it so much I later went back to the same seller and bought a new Glock 23 – the .40 cal. compact. One's for patrolling the halls of the Young Ladies Academy, where I want the rowdy out-of-town boys to understand that Mama packs a big, black gun to protect her girls, and one's for carrying discreetly in company that might be shocked, just shocked, by the sight of a firearm. I was spoiling myself, buying two where one would have done, but I'm worth it. And I can use the same ammo in both and call myself positively sensible.



Why a Glock? Because I wanted “pull trigger go bang." I didn't want to have to worry about flicking a safety while some big bruser's roaring at me with a knife. I wanted reliability. I like the polymer frame. Glocks are super-quick to disassemble and clean. And the .40 cal seemed like a good compromise between the smallest and the biggest calibers in our list of five possibles.



Why not a revolver – which everybody always says should be a woman's first gun? I could tell you it's because I prefer the higher capacity of the semi-auto. Which is true. But really, I'm just not a revolver kind of gal. It's just me, but I feel more reliable handling a semi-auto.



You can listen to all the experts in the world. But once you've considered some solid basics, you're going to make your decision on what works well for you. That's true for choosing a firearm. It might even be more true when you choose ammo. So on with it, shall we?



The first thing you need to know



The first thing you need to know is that most self-defense use of firearms doesn't involve shooting anybody. A bad guy usually gets the hell out of your way when he knows you're willing and able to shoot his valuables off.



Just having a firearm and the skill to use it can make a difference. Police interviews are full of statements from crooks like this: “I chose her because she looked like somebody who wouldn't have a gun."



In most real-world contretemps, ammo isn't even going to enter the picture. But just in case, you want it to be good. You want ammo that won't malfunction in your weapon and that will do the job if it hits an attacker.



If you do have to shoot somebody, here's a pretty good description of both the psychology and the physiology of a gunfight.



Now, here's what you look for in good self-defense ammo ...



Your ammo should be 100 percent reliable



Always buy factory-new, brand-name ammo for self-defense (specific recommendations below). Do not use the hand-loads that Good Old Joe next door offers you – no matter how careful a reloader Joe might be. Do not buy cheap ammo or ammo labeled "remanufactured" for self defense. Your life's worth an extra few bucks, isn't it?



You want a round that will perform 100 percent of the time. That means it'll perform the same way 100 percent of time – not hitting high this time and low the next. That means it'll feed in your particular firearm 100 percent of the time – and you know it will because you've tested it.



Your test will probably be simpler than the one described here. Don't be daunted by the material behind that link. Merely going to the range or the plinking quarry, and seeing how different ammos perform when shot under the same circumstances (same gun, same stance, same distance from the target, etc) is enough for most of us. But that link shows how the big boys do it.



Your ammo should have reliable penetration



Reliable penetration means it should be able to travel at least 12 inches into soft human tissue. A big man might have a chest 14 or 16 inches deep. If you have to shoot him, you want to be sure to have a round that can reach his spinal column through his chest. Or reach his heart even if he's turned half-sideways, his arm is in the way, or you're on the ground and have to shoot up at an angle through his body.



For revolvers and pistols, the type of ammo that penetrates best is usually full-metal jacket (FMJ – a round-nosed lead bullet coated with copper).



However, most gunfolk don't carry FMJ as a self-defense round, because penetration is only part of the picture.



Your ammo should have good expansion



Most cartridges sold specifically for self-defense have jacketed-hollowpoint bullets (JHP). These bullets are designed to expand upon impact. When a bullet expands, it also slows down, so it tends to penetrate less.



There are two ideas behind JHP:





To do maximum tissue damage



To prevent the bullet from penetrating so far that it goes clear through the attacker and hits a bystander.

Check out these pictures of wound channels (don't worry; no actual gore, just experimental shots into ballistic gel) and hollow-point bullets retrieved after test-firings. You'll see the kind of expansion I'm talking about.



Penetration vs expansion



Most self-defense trainers and cops will tell you JHPs are the way to go. But not everybody agrees! If you thought firearms themselves could bring out some pretty heated opinions from gun guys, just mention the words "penetration vs. expansion" or "under-penetration vs. over-penetration" to those same guys – and stand back. Waaaaaay back. Especially if you have the science lab guys on one side and the street-experience guys on the other.



(If you want to see the thick data from one of the top ballistics experts in the world, Dr. Martin Fackler, here it is.)



Everybody agrees, though, that if you don't have enough penetration to hit vital organs, expansion alone won't do it. They also agree that you can't count 100 percent of the time on expansion. If you had to fire at an angle through very thick, strong glass (like a windshield) or layers of thick clothing, your expandable bullet might not expand in the attacker's body at all. The bullets are designed to expand in such circumstances, but they might get damaged or deflected by thick glass. Or they might get "cocooned" in cloth, for example, and not be able to spread.



But as a couple of the guys kindly pointed out, failure to expand because of "cocooning," effectively turns your JHP into an FMJ and probably gives you greater penetration.



The premium JHP rounds sold for self-defense are designed to have a good balance of penetration and expansion.



So I'm sticking with premium-brand JHPs.



The best JHPs are tested to go through leather, glass, and even car doors and still expand when they hit flesh. And if some ninja's coming at you with body armor, shoot him in the gut if the chest shots don't teach him the lesson he needs to learn.



FBI Special Agent Urey Patrick, who wrote an analysis of police ammo needs for the U.S. Department of Justice, also points out: "No law enforcement officer has lost his life because a bullet over penetrated his adversary, and virtually none have ever been sued for hitting an innocent bystander through an adversary. On the other hand, tragically large numbers of officers have been killed because their bullets did not penetrate deeply enough."



But keep remembering: What you gotta do is what works for you. The gun you choose and your own personal preferences are going to be part of your choice. There are reasons you might choose FMJ over JHP – and you'll hear some of them if you keep on reading.



The diameter and weight of the bullet



Special Agent Urey Patrick says, "Bullet selection should be determined based on penetration first, and the unexpanded diameter of the bullet second, as that is all the shooter can reliably expect."



The caliber of your firearm (as we saw in Part I) dictates the "unexpanded diameter" of your ammo. Your .357 Magnum revolver shoots a bullet roughly 36/100ths of an inch across. Your .45 ACP, 45/100ths of an inch, and so on. A 9mm bullet is about 35/100ths of an inch in diameter.



A heavier bullet is also generally more effective than a light one.



So all other things being equal, a .45 is superior to a 9mm. But all things aren't equal.



What works in your gun



ZooT_aLLures, one of the boys on The Claire Files forums, says, manufacturing tolerances "give each and every firearm a sort of personality. ...In most cases the 'personality' of a given firearm along with a certain brand and style of ammo will outperform all others in that particular firearm."



Revolvers have a reputation for being able to "feed" anything – that is, to load and fire any variety of ammo (in the right caliber, of course), whether the bullet is jacketed or plain lead, whether round-nosed, hollow-pointed, or flat.



Semi-autos have a reputation for being fussier about ammo. They can malfunction if the bullet is an unusual shape or if a particular box of ammo was manufactured slightly off-spec.



But your gun is your gun. Even in my limited experience, I've seen revolvers malfunction like nasty little SOBs. And I've seen semi-autos feed and fire total garbage ammo without a hiccup.



So when you're looking at self-defense ammo, ideally you need to buy a box or two of every type of cartridge that interests you – a process that can get pretty expensive. Shoot at least 50 rounds of each type of ammo through your self-defense gun. A good ammo shouldn't malfunction or misfire at all.



If you can't afford to test that much pricey self-defense ammo (and it does get pricey, -- figure 2-3 times the cost of your practice ammo), then you might just want to carry FMJ. Even then, though, make sure you carry a name brand you've practiced with.



Some old or cheap semi-autos might not feed anything but FMJ. If that's all your gun will shoot, then FMJ is also your best self-defense round, no matter what any ballistics test says. But if your gun feeds JHP without a problem, a premium-quality JHP is the round to use.



You and your self-defense ammo



Your ammo not only needs to work in your gun, it needs to work for you. Your gun & ammo combo has to feel right in your hands.



Once you've settled on the self-defense ammo that fires reliably in your gun and that you can shoot with confidence, you should get some less expensive practice ammo. Generally, your practice ammo should have the same (or similar) weight of bullet as your self defense ammo. That lets you practice with an ammo that feels like your self-defense choice when you fire it, but doesn't bust your budget. But above all, your practice ammo and your self-defense ammo should have the same point of impact. That is, when you stand in the same place and shoot in the same way, your practice ammo should make essentially the same bullet groupings on your target as your self-defense ammo does.



See Ammo Basics, below, for more about bullet weights and additional information about calibers.



No guaranteed results



Gun guys talk about "stopping power." That is, you're not necessarily out to kill your attacker – just to halt him, make him fall over, stop him from coming at you.



But Special Agent Patrick – and a lot of experienced people – point out that there is no "magic bullet" for stopping anything as unpredictable as a human being or a large animal. Patrick writes:





The human target can be reliably incapacitated only by disrupting or destroying the brain or upper spinal cord. Absent that, incapacitation is subject to a host of variables, the most important of which are beyond the control of the shooter. Incapacitation becomes an eventual event, not necessarily an immediate one. If the psychological factors which can contribute to incapacitation are present, even a minor wound can be immediately incapacitating. If they are not present, incapacitation can be significantly delayed even with major, unsurvivable wounds.



In other words, some dude who's on serious uppers or who's so busy listening to the voices in his head that he doesn't see your firearm might not even notice a wound, even if it's bad enough to eventually kill him. Someone in the midst of an adrenaline rush might not even feel the pain of a fatal wound. These guys can keep coming at you unless you've hit them in the brain or the spine – yep, even sometimes if you've hit them in the heart. On the other hand, as Patrick also says, most people who get shot – and who know they've been shot – fall down immediately. But barring a central nervous system wound, falling is as much a psychological reaction as a physical one.



In every encounter, luck, psychology, a good aim, good timing, and an almost infinite number of other factors play a part. Your job is to be as prepared as you can be with a substantial weapon, good ammo, good skills, and as much presence of mind as you can muster.



Because fortune favors the best prepared. And a woman pointing a serious-looking gun in a serious-looking way could be one heck of a psychological factor to any sane bad guy.



The top self-defense ammos



Cut to the chase. Although you'll still need to determine what works best for your particular caliber and your particular gun, these brands and types of ammo are both the most often recommended and the easiest to find at gun stores and sporting goods stores. They are all made especially for self-defense:





Speer Gold Dot



Remington Golden Saber



Cor-Bon JHP



Federal Hydra-Shok



Winchester Silvertip

Less easy to get, but strong performers in lab tests are:





Winchester Ranger (available here)



Federal Tactical (sold only to cops)

The quality and performance, even in these top brands, vary from caliber to caliber.



The Winchester Silvertip and Federal Hydra-Shok are older designs, and the Silvertip was also implicated in one of the most notorious FBI shootout failures of all time. But many trainers still recommend these brands – and quite possibly if you live in a small town, one of these will be the only brand easily available to you.



If you want to do more deep evaluation, here are helpful, easy-to-follow photos and lab test results on various ammo, courtesy of Morgan Johnson, one of the helpful folk who reviewed this article. For a list of specific recommendations in our chosen calibers, look here.



As always, judge and test for yourself. Never forget, what matters is what works best in your gun and in your hands.



If your state doesn't allow hollow-points – which all of the above are -- a Hardyville gent named "securitysix" recommends the Federal EFMJ (Expanding Full-Metal Jacket). But then, he also recommends moving to another state. In Hardyville, our itty-bitty government wouldn't dare "allow" or forbid us our self-defense tools. We use what works best, whatever that may be, and don't allow bad guys any advantage.



Next up: Training to use your guns and ammo.





Thank you once again to the folks of The Claire Files forums – this time in particular to Plinker-MS, Caesarl, Rick, kbarrett, Hasher, Ian, Chris, enemyofthestate, RN/MEDIC and all the wise contributors to the ammo discussion thread. And of course, to Misfit and her scandalous cousin.







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Additional Information

Ammo Basics



The cartridge you load in your revolver or pistol has four parts:





A metal case (usually brass) that holds the other components;



A primer (basically a small firecracker) at the bottom of the case. The primer explodes when the gun's firing pin strikes it;



A charge of smokeless powder that gets sparked by the primer;



The bullet, which is then blown out of the case and hurtles toward your target at a velocity somewhere between 800 feet per second and 1500 feet per second.

In choosing a self-defense ammo, the bullet is your biggest preoccupation.



Caliber



The bigger the caliber, the wider the diameter of the bullet. Bullet diameter, however, is only part of the question. Remember back in Part I, I said you'd be looking at five different calibers, and those were:





.357 Magnum



.44 Special



9mm Luger (aka Parabellum)



.40 S&W



.45 ACP

When you go to buy ammo, make sure both parts of the caliber designation – both the number and the word -- on the box match what your gun is chambered for.



When you're buying premium jacketed hollow-points for self defense, this will be easy because those rounds are usually made in the above calibers. But with all ammo, and especially your FMJ practice ammo, you have to be careful not to accidentally buy .44 Magnum (rather than Special) or .45 Long Colt (rather than ACP) or 9mm x 18 or 9mm Makarov (rather than Luger). If you do get the wrong ammo, you'll usually know right away; it won't fit properly in your gun. Just something to be aware of when you shop.



When looking for self-defense ammo, bullet type is the big factor you're considering. So here's a tiny primer on bullets.



Bullet types



There are probably hundreds of bullet shapes and types. But they basically all fall into three categories.





Bullets that are solid masses of lead. They may be rounded or flattened, plain lead, or lead that's coated (jacketed) with copper. But they're designed to strike the target in one lump and penetrate it. The FMJ mentioned in text is this type.



Hollow-points. Also lead and usually jacketed – but these have a hole of some sort in the business end. They're designed to expand in soft tissue.



Frangibles. (Also called pre-fragmented bullets or PFBs.) These are usually expensive special-order items, with the best known brands being MagSafe and Glaser. Instead of a solid bullet, they feature compressed metal powder that disintegrates upon impact, doing devastating, but shallow, tissue damage. They were designed not to go through walls of airplanes, apartment buildings and such. They're good for not risking children in the adjoining room. Bad if your attacker is wearing heavy clothing or body armor. Most experts do not recommend them for self-defense because of their inadequate penetration.

Bullet weights



Bullets are weighed in grains. Using a handy-dandy mass-weight conversion calculator, we discover that a grain is 0.002285714285714 of an ounce. (You had to ask, didn't you? Believe it or not, article reviewer Plinker-MS tells me that's an old English measurement, based on what one average grain of wheat weighs. Seven thousand grains to the pound. Seriously.)



In general, the bigger the caliber, the heavier the bullet. But within each caliber, you can buy a range of bullet weights. For instance: .45 ACP bullets from Cor-Bon come in weights from 165 grain to 230 grain. With .357 Magnum, you might choose a 110-grain bullet or 125-grain bullet. With my .40 S&W, I could have chosen 135-grain, 150-grain, or 165-grain.



Most self-defense shooting is done at short ranges where the weight of the bullet isn't the most enormous factor. A heavy bullet has a little more of a kick when you fire it. A lighter bullet usually travels at higher velocity. If you don't have the budget to try a lot of different types, go for the heaviest bullet for the sake of whatever little extra wallop it might give or a medium bullet for medium recoil.



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Comments On The Spinal Column And Ammo Penetration

By Morgan Johnson for "Miss Fitz' Guide to Guns, Part III"



The matter of penetration is hotly debated, but bless you (despite my atheism) a thousand times for including the specification! My only concern is your mentioning of the spinal column.



Critics of the scientific approach to wound ballistics have remarked that the spinal cord is *very* thin, about as thin as your pinky finger, and not an easy target to hit. This is an accurate, and valid criticism. The criticism does not, however, destroy the argument for deep penetration. In shooting for blood, we aim for COM (center of mass) as accuracy is not likely, further, we keep shooting, until the threat has ceased.



The use of adequate penetrating ammunition allows for at least the possibility of hitting the spinal cord and disrupting the fight, particularly one that has enough penetration to reach the spinal cord, and then has enough energy to break through the bones protecting it (ammo that penetrates 10" probably will not).



The main, most probable, and most exemplary need for penetration is the arm, which can add several more inches, and was the tissue structure that got in the way in the 1986 Miami firefight, which lead to the adoption of scientific wound ballistics. The ammunition used in the 1986 Miami firefight was Winchester's Silvertip, which was designed under the old NIJ (National Institute of Justice) RII (Relative Incapacitation Index) standard. Silvertip ammo is Gen I engineeered, and does not reliably handle clothing, nor is it designed for adequate penetration. The RII was based on *assumed* criteria without *any* real world testing, the same is NOT true of the current gelatin testin



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Morgan Johnson passes along these recommendations for handgun ammo



9 mm:



Barnes 105 gr JHP (copper bullet)



Speer Gold Dot 124 gr +P JHP (53617) *



Winchester "Ranger" 127 gr +P+ JHP (RA9TA)



Remington "Golden Saber" 147 gr JHP (GS9MMC) *



Speer "Gold Dot" 147 gr JHP (53619) *



Winchester "Ranger" 147 gr JHP (RA9T)



.40 S&W:



Speer "Gold Dot" 155 gr JHP (53961) *



Winchester "Ranger" 165 gr JHP (RA40TA)



Remington "Golden Saber" 180 gr JHP (GS40SWB) *



Speer "Gold Dot" 180 gr JHP (53966) *



Winchester "Ranger" 180 gr JHP (RA40T)



.45 ACP:



Speer 230 gr Gold Dot (23966) *



Winchester 230 gr Ranger Talon (RA45T)



Winchester 230 gr +P Ranger Talon (RA45TP)



Items marked with an asterisk are readily available through normal distribution channels. The other's a litttle more difficult, but acquireable.



For the Gold Dot line, Black Hills loads and distributes all of these, they are available through Georgia Precision



Winchester's Ranger line is available through ProLoad



Remington's is available commercially.



I cannot say with any degree of certainty what to choose for the .357 Magnum, or the .44 Special.



The Remington 158gr +P LSWCHP does well in pistol lengths above 3" for



the .38s, so it should do as well out of the .357s. I could venture a guess that moderate velocity 158gr, and 180 gr loads would tend to do well, though they are at risk for over-penetration. Speer makes a 125gr, and 158 gr Gold Dot load that is readily available.



For the .44 Special, which is even more neglected by ammunition companies than the revolver cartridges, I wouldn't know where to start. Full Wad Cutters wouldn't be bad though.



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Part IV: Learning to save your life

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Miss Fitz' Guide to Guns, Part II How to Make Sure You're Buying a Gun and not a Turkey

Here is an interesting article from http://www.backwoodshome.com/ about gun buying in particular. This follows this post about which guns a first-timer should consider, particularly a woman, but you can consider this article also if you are a guy.  This follows THIS POST about some movies that have been released over the past few years that you might have missed!  This all  follows this post about guidelines to chosing good movies to watch yourself!

Miss Fitz' Guide to Guns, Part II How to Make Sure You're Buying a Gun and not a Turkey


By Claire Wolfe



Last time, Miss Euphemia Fitz, the madam... er, headmistress of Miss Fitz's Young Ladies Academy, talked about the relative advantages of revolvers and semi-autos. Now, in Part II of her four-part series, Miss Fitz reveals the scoop on how to shop for that sidearm without shooting yourself in the foot.





Ready to shop?



Before we hit the gun malls, check some prices. GunsAmerica is the spot. A click or three there and you'll see what every sort of common handgun in the world is selling for.



At this point, make a list of four or five firearms that sound good and that you can afford. Don't narrow your choices down to just one "perfect" gun yet. That gun might not be as right for you as it sounds on paper. Keeping options open also means we can grab a great deal on a good gun when one comes along, without wearing the soles off our shoes searching for one gotta-have-it gun.





Test firing

The smart thing is to test-fire at least one revolver and one semi-auto in our serious calibers before you buy. (More if you can.) Do it with a friend who knows guns – or even hire a local firearms trainer to come with you for an hour or two. Do not do it alone!



Big shooting ranges – especially ones connected with gun stores -- often have handguns you can rent. Otherwise your shooting pal or trainer can loan you a couple.



Firearms training is Part IV. But you'll need some basics for test-firing. Again, your friend or trainer is there for that. Whatever else that person tells you, make sure it includes:



The four rules of firearms safety. Really, really know and use those rules -- always.

The Four Cardinal Rules of Firearms Safety

All Guns Are LOADED



Point the muzzle in a safe direction (Safe meaning "at something you are either willing to destroy OR at something that can effectively stop the round)



Keep your finger straight along the frame until you are on target and ready to fire



Be sure of your target and what's behind it





Wear ear plugs or sound-reducing shooter's ear muffs. Wear clear goggles or some other wrap-around form of eye protection.



If you're going to be shooting semi-autos, also wear a baseball cap. (Semi-autos throw their used brass into the air with each shot; you don't want that brass hitting your head. Revolvers keep their used brass inside the cylinder.)



Do not wear a low-necked or open-necked shirt or blouse. And I'm not just telling you this to keep the guys from staring. Brass comes out of semi-autos firecracker-hot. If you don't like the idea of ejected brass in your hair, trust me, you really, really, really do not want hot brass in your bra!

If your shooting buddy doesn't tell you these things (especially the first two) ... get a different friend.





Where to test-fire

There are two good places to do your test firing: at a shooting range or at some safe "plinking" spot your friend might take you to.



The shooting range is set up for safe, controlled shooting. But the atmosphere there can be mucho macho. Very intimidating to some newbies. (Me, I find the smell of gunpowder mixed with male pheromones to be tres sexy.)



The plinking spot – an old quarry, maybe, or the side of a hill – is just fine – so long as you're able to judge whether that spot is truly safe for shooting. Your shots must go harmlessly into the dirt behind whatever target you set up. There should be no chance of a poorly aimed shot flying into the distance and hitting a person. Or a cow. Or a car. Or a house.





Where to buy

So now you've tested a few guns. You know whether you're happier shooting a .357 Magnum or .45 ACP. You know whether a SIG-Sauer fits your hand better than a Colt 1911, and whether a Ruger fits your budget better than a Glock. At least, you have some idea, even if you didn't get the chance to test every gun on your list.



Next, where to buy?



Gun store: Local gun store is an easy choice. They often sell both new and used firearms and are staffed by helpful experts.



But every gun store is also an "FFL" – a federal firearm license holder. And that can be bad news.



FFL = paperwork. And a big, sticky paper trail right from you to the FBI and (sorry for the bad language, girls) from you to the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives, the ugliest, meanest agency of the federal government.



(See the sidebar below So you think you want to buy from an FFL for a description of what you'll go through.)



Gun show: Gun shows are fun. Think of them as flea markets for all things gunnish. Like shooting ranges, they can deliver Total Macho Overload. But get in the spirit and they're great. (All those lovely men roaming around ...)



But aren't gun shows bazaars of death, where the infamous "gun show loophole" lets murderers and thieves evade government gun-buying rules? Surely you've heard that.



Horsefeathers.



Some people who set up tables at gun shows are FFLs – gun dealers. Buy from them and you still have to go through paperwork and FBI BS.



Other people who set up at gun shows are private parties – the same folks who might sell a gun via a classified ad or to a friend at a gun club. Buy from them and (in most states), the exchange is private.



It's not the gun show that made it private. There is no "gun-show loophole," no matter how many politicians scream about it. What made the transaction private is the fact that you're buying from a private party.



To find out whether a seller is an FFL or not, just ask. Quite often non-FFLs will have signs on their tables, telling you that.



Private citizens will also often walk around with rifles over their shoulders or signs on their clothes, advertising a handgun for sale or trade. And those sales, too, are private if your state allows it.



Private party (friend or local classified ad): Sometimes you can find guns for sale in the classified ads. Pity, a lot of big city newspapers have gone all chickenpoop and stopped allowing gun ads. But ads are still out there, in rural and gun-friendly areas. In most states you can buy from a friend or relative, legally and privately.  Know the gun laws in your state.



Internet or gun publication: If you buy a gun over the internet or from an ad in a gun publication, and if that firearm is shipped across state lines, it will have to be shipped to an FFL and you'll still have to go through all the federal nonsense before being "allowed" to buy.



If you buy from an ad placed by a non-FFL in your own state, you might still be able to keep private. Again, know your state laws. I'm not a lawyer, and the lawyers I know usually aren't talking shop during their visits to my young ladies. So don't screw up, then say, "Miss Fitz told me so."





How to inspect a gun prior to purchase

When you spot a gun that looks good at a price you can afford (or can bargain down), the next thing is to perform some simple checks on it.



If a gun is new in the box, you probably don't need to inspect extensively – but you'll still want to get a feel for handling it. (And there's a possibility it will have manufacturing defects.)



If a gun you're interetested in is used, definitely give it some scrutiny.



But never fear! The basic tests are easy, and merely by doing them, you'll let the seller know that although you may be a babe, you're not a babe in the woods.



(Before going further, take a look below at the sidebar on gun-handling etiquette.)





Overall condition of the firearm

Once the seller hands you the firearm or gives you permission to pick the gun up off his table, the first thing you do (being careful not to point it at anybody) is check out its overall condition. You're looking for the easy and obvious. Is there any rust on the metal or places where rust might have been covered? Cracks in plastic, rubber, or wooden surfaces? Any scratches or obvious signs of wear? If so, as a newbie you probably don't want that gun.





Dry firing

If you like the look of the gun, ask the seller if you can dry fire it. Dry firing is pointing the unloaded gun in a safe direction (toward the floor, or in a jam-packed gun show, over the heads of the crowd) and pulling the trigger to check its action. A few sellers will say no. Most will say yes.



If you get a yes, grip the gun as your plinking friend or trainer taught you, point it in a safe driection, and slowly, steadily, calmly squeeze the trigger.



Is the trigger too hard for you to pull comfortably? Don't get that gun. Is the trigger so easy to pull that you could fire it by accident if you flinched even a little bit? Don't get that gun, either. As you pull the trigger slowly, you'll notice that at first, you're simply taking up slack. The gun doesn't fire until you reach a certain point. On some guns (Rugers, notioriously) that slack period is long, long, long and feels "sloppy." On others, it's short and tight.



You probably want it medium. You certainly want it smooth, not jerky. You want to be able to fire the gun by putting steady, even pressure on the trigger.



Trigger action can be adjusted, to a certain extent, by a gunsmith after your purchase. But if you're not comfortable with the basic action, don't get that gun. If the trigger action is comfortable for you, go to the next test.





Inspecting the barrel

This is also simple. But it'll tell you a lot about the condition of a used firearm.



Pull your penlight out of your pocket. (A penlight is a must-have accessory for used-gun shopping; if you don't have one, the seller likely will.) Hold the gun in your left hand with its action open (see that handling-etiquette sidebar!). Hold the penlight in your right. Gently place the penlight into the open action – that is, into the firing chamber of the gun. Angle the penlight until it shines into the barrel.



Now turn the gun to point straight at your face, keeping your finger off the trigger (this is about the only time you'll ever, ever point a gun at yourself). Look down the lighted barrel.



Here's what you should see: An ultra shiny, slick metal surface with a smooth, spiraling groove running through it. That's all that should be inside that barrel.



If you see dust or little black flecks of gun powder, ask the seller to clean the barrel and look again. (Crud in a barrel isn't a great sign; it indicates somebody hasn't been cleaning the gun. But it's not necessarily fatal.)



Now, do you see a smooth, shiny surface? Or do you see pits, dull spots, scratches, or other flaws? If you see a single flaw in the barrel of that gun, put it down and walk away.



(Actually, my friend Rick has an even simpler test. Just watch the seller's face when you go to shine a light in the barrel: "If there is anything wrong you'll see it at once BEFORE you'll peep through the barrel; the seller gets nervous.")





Other inspections

By the time you've checked overall condition, dry-fired, and inspected the barrel, you can fairly well judge whether you're holding a sound firearm. But you may want to ask the seller to disassemble and reassemble the gun for you. This not only lets you inspect its innards for signs of rust, wear, or other damage, but gives you some idea of how difficult it'll be to clean the gun after your shooting practices.



If you have any remaining doubts, you might also ask the seller to allow you to take the firearm to a gunsmith for a more thorough check. He might let you return it in X days if it doesn't check out.



And there you have it. You've just bought yourself a sidearm and a little bit of security.



But what ammo do you load it with? Oh, girl, that's another question! We'll get to that in Part III.





Special thanks to Rick, Chris, and Bug of TCF. And, as always, to Misfit.







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So you think you want to buy from an FFL?

Buying from an FFL -- a licenced gun dealer -- can be a PITA.



You have to show your drivers license or other state-issued ID. You fill out an ATF Form 4473 that contains a record of the gun you're buying (complete with serial number) and asks ridiculous things like what race you are – as if that matters. The form also asks for your social security number, but that's optional. Don't give it unless you just love blowing your own privacy.



The 4473 stays at the gun store until the store goes out of business – at which moment, your information goes off to the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives, where they still pretend they're not making a permanent registration file on you (since federal gun registration is illegal). The ATF also shows up sometimes and inspects (and even copies) 4473s in the store.



Anyway, it doesn't much matter what happens with the 4473. Because what happens right after you fill out the form creates another government "paper trail."



The gun dealer calls the FBI and gives them your name, sex, birthdate, state of residence, and race (there's that racial business again!).



If you're lucky, the FBI tells the dealer, "Proceed." And you go home with your gun.



If you're unlucky, the FBI says, "Denied." And you go home empty handed (and in rare cases, go straight to jail). This is supposed to happen only if you're a felon, a mental patient, under a restraining order, or otherwise ineligible to own firearms. But people with unpaid parking tickets, and even a man who didn't renew the license for his (dead) dog have been denied the right to buy guns.



I am not kidding. You see why some of us avoid FFLs?



The FBI might also say, "Delay." In which case, you come back in three days. If the FBI hasn't given the dealer further bad news about you, you get your gun then.







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Gun-Handling Etiquette





When a seller hands you a gun, he'll hand it to you with the action open. If it's a revolver, that means that the cylinder that holds the ammo will be pivoted outward from the frame. If it's a semi-auto, that means that the slide (the top of the gun) will be locked back.



In both cases, an open action enables you to look into the firing chamber and the ammo-carrying parts of the gun and verify for yourself that the firearm is unloaded.



Someone hands a gun to you, it's open. You look for yourself. Every time.



Then after you've inspected the gun, dry-fired it, or whatever else you do with it, you re-open the action and hand the gun back.



You hand the gun back to the seller open. He looks for himself. Every time.



If you hand the firearm to your companion, you hand it with the action open. Your companion looks for himself to make sure it's empty. Every time.



If you put the gun down on a table, you do it with the action open. Pick it up from the table, you look and make sure it's empty. Every time.



Any time that the firearm has been out of your control, even for a moment, you check it again when you pick it up to verify its loaded or unloaded condition.



If this little dance seems ridiculous to you, bear with it. Nobody, not the biggest Macho Man in all of Gundom, scoffs at these rules if he expects others to respect him. There is no such thing as being too scrupulous about safety when handling a firearm.



If this little dance seems so ridiculous to you that you absolutely refuse to bear it, then don't buy a gun. Don't even borrow one. And don't ever carry one around. Because you're not a safe gun handler.



Same with the four rules of firearms safety listed in the main article. If someone repeats them to you at the range, or in a firearms training class, and your response is, "Yeah, yeah, get off my case," then you're not grown-up enough to use guns. If you've already heard the safety rules 100 times, then be ready to hear them for the 101st. Or the 1,001st. And really hear them, every time.



Guns are amazing, life-saving tools when you're willing to use them properly. But one screwup could destroy your (or somebody else's) whole life.



So observe gun-handling etiquette at all times. It's one heck of a lot more important than using the right fork at dinner.


Next time: Ammo You Can Bet Your Life On